Shredding hardwood floors which have been glued straight to concrete can be very messy and labour-intensive task. But there are some factors will be important in ascertaining how hard the task will be, include:

o How good it was firstly installed. DIY installations will be the easiest to remove, whether it is not enough or wrong adhesives applied. If it was installed by professionals, just wait for a removal nightmare.

o What type of product was firstly installed. Some are easier than others to tear out. Foam backed parquet may be the easiest. But then, products that were made up with multiple relief or kerf cuts on the backside will be more durable.

o Tools Applied and the Effective Rip Out. To make it easier you should cut the surface area in one foot segments with a circular saw. Observe the thickness of the flooring and adjust the blade depth where it hardly hit the concrete. Make it done when the power cord is taken out from outlets. It is essential that your cuts pass through the hardwood totally. Not doing it will prolong the job as we want tidy parts to come up instead of in splinters.

o Area to Begin. Removal is lightest from the tongue side of the installation in most cases, but you maybe have no idea where that is. Have a look for a complete width plank along a parallel wall line. In most of glue down installations, the tongue focuses face the starter wall. Commonly it is where the original installation began, contrary to an opposite wall line that might have a partial plank width.

Then, trim a line approximately 15-18″ departed from the wall crossed the entire room. Keep the cut in the seams lines. After that, take over with another cut in another seam. It will be our starter region for the tear out. At last, make straight cuts every 12-15″ crossed the starter area to each wall line. Remove the starter row with a crowbar and mini sledge hammer.

o Possible Tools Used:  

• Heat gun or lots hot water
• Floor sander
• Circular saw
• Long handled flooring scraper
• Utility knife
• Substance that removes glue (acetone, WD-40, elbow grease, etc)
• A long handled flooring scraper
• Hammer

The weightier the hammer or sleigh the better. According to some opinion, #3 mini sleighs work best. A standard crowbar work to get under the flooring after a few hard knocks. The trick is attempting to take away in parts and not chunks. It is crucial when having the circular saw cuts you get entirely through the flooring. Blades will dull quickly so prepare more.

You can go to shop to find the tools needed. The shop may guide you to a substance that removes glue. Acetone and WD-40 will remove most glue. With Acetone it must be well aired. If you try to apply elbow grease you can use a sander to remove the glue as well.

A floor scraper will remove most of it on concrete. A heat gun and scraper is commonly effective for removing adhesive. Scrape away as much of the adhesive as possible. Remaining adhesive can be sanded off if refinishing wood floors. I would be unsure to use a smelly solution on a large area. Solvents are flammable and explosive. All it takes is one spark to ignite.

Decant hot water leave it for a couple of minutes. The hot water can soften the glue and make it possible to roll the linoleum off the floor in long strips. Another option to using hot water is a heat gun. This will also soften the glue’s hold and let you to roll the linoleum. Once the linoleum in off the floor, more hot water (or the heat gun) will soften the glue so it can be dismissed by a long handled flooring scraper.

If hot water can not touch it, burning it is a fire hazard and will smell, anything with solvent in will remove it, and evaporate after, keep well ventilated and watch for fire risks. WD-40 works, but then you have the smell, and it is also difficult to clean up after. Rubber solution glue goes over well with ‘Hammerite’ thinners.

You can try heating the glue. When it will melt away then you can start scrubbing. Using a heat gun will help, just takes lots of elbow grease, then if you want it completely clean, finish cleaning with adhesive remover. It needs to be real well ventilated, and follow all the safety caution on the can.

Other choice is a product called Foam Off that came in a clear plastic gallon container. It was nontoxic and not stinky, made from citrus. It was costly but worthy it did an excellent job. Do not scrimp on the application, they say liberal amount and they mean it. You still need a scraper but it softens the glue up and makes removal easy without any damage to the floor except it removes the finish. Which you no doubt need to redo anyhow, you can get the product at Home Depot.

The name is the same but is now in a can. It can be used about 1 1/2 gallons on a 9 x 12 room. You need to rinse with water after removing glue. Other remediate that do not work is using a paste made from Tide laundry soap, it is just make a mess on top of the glue.