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Hardwood Floor Species Information

This section can be your references to build the perfect hardwood floors for your home. Some solid hardwoods may be susceptible to extreme conditions, In this case you can see our guide about Solid vs Enginered Hardwood Floors or Janka Hardness Scale test for hardwood flooring species.

African PadaukCarribean Heart PineKempasSantos Mahogany
Afzelia / DoussieCedarLacewoodSapele / Sapelli
AmendoimChestnutLarchSatinwood
American BeechCocoboloLeopardwoodShedua
AndirobaCoffee BeanLocustSouthern Yellow Pine
Angelim PedraCorkMakoreSouthern Yellow Pine (Longleaf)
Ash (White)CottonwoodMerbau Spotted Gum
Australian CypressCumaru / Brazilian TeakMesquite Sweet Birch
BangkiraiCurupixaMindiSycamore
BasswoodDouglas FirMovinguiSydney Blue Gum
Black CherryEastern White PineNatural Bamboo*Tallowwood
Black WalnutEbonyPaper BirchTasmanian Oak
BlackwoodEucalyptus / Rose GumParana PineTeak
BloodwoodHard Maple / Sugar MaplePerobaTigerwood
BocoteHeart PinePradooTimborana
BoireHemlockPurpleheartTrue Pine
BorealHickory and PecanRed MahoganyTualang
Brazilian Cherry / JatobaHighland BeechRed Oak (Northern)Turpentine
BrushboxImbuiaRed PineWenge
BubingaIpe / Walnut / LapachoRedwood / ParajuWhite Oak
CabreuvaJarrahRibbon GumWhite Pine
CameronKambala / IrokoRosewoodYellow Birch
Carbonized Bamboo*KarriSakuraZebrawood
*) represent one spesies.
(Some items available soon)

Do It Yourself Guide

Why hire a contractor if you can do it by yourself? It's can be fun and rewarding. However, a factor of time and high risk of human error but less money to spend is the things you must consider first. In some difficult projects be sure your knowledge and experiences are capable enough to handle it.
 
  • Introduction
  •  
  • About DIY Installation
  •  
  • Recommended Tools
  •  
  • Installing Carpet to Hardwood Floor
  •  
  • Removing Stains and Odors Pets in Hardwood Floors
  •  
  • Removing Glued HF's on Concrete
  •  
  • Dust Control
  •  
  • Refinishing Floors
  •  
  • Fixing Squeak and Cracks
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    Hardwood Flooring Repairs



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    Problem with your hardwood floors? That doesn’t mean that you have to replace or refinish the entire floor. Replace a strip of flooring, fix a buckled board, or remove stains and scratches, and of course… do it all yourself.

    Your hardwood floor may be in generally fine shape, with exactly a damaged spot or two. If you detect damage or stains, it perhaps easier and more efficient to establish small repairs than to refinish the whole floor. Several repairs are easier than others, and some had better be left up to a professional, specifically floating floors. Do it yourself and save some money for bigger projects is a better idea.

    Floating Floor Repairs

    Floating floors are much manufactured with preciseness. When a single board or two is removed, the new ones have replace into position the exactly same way as they‘re suspended above the subfloor. The locking or glued mechanism are missed once they’re removed. Particular tools have to be brought.

    In modern years with seemingly every manufacturer claiming their engineered products can now be floated, beveled character floors could not require the precise repair work. Their slight bevel square* may hide any vertical height difference that’s very important with the others remarked.

    Nailed Or Stapled Floor Repairs

    These types of repairs will be the most simple one to perform, although a hardwood professional is better apt to make any repair look like it was not a repair. Like any board replacement, if you’re using new material the likelihood of them not matching is always there, due the way hardwood changes color over time.

    Prefinished floors will be the easiest task because there will be no finishing required. However the utmost care should be taken into consideration not to damaged adjacent boards during the procedure. First, look for any nails in the damaged board and drive as far through the board as possible by using a hammer and nail set (a pointed tool that you place on the head of the nail and then strike with a hammer, driving the nail into the wood). Carpenters use nail sets to drive nails flush with trim without damaging the trim with a hammer.

    After you’ve cleared the nails, it’s time to remove the damaged board and install a new one:

    1. Using a carpenter’s square, mark a perpendicular line across the section of the board to be removed.

    If you’re removing the entire strip, skip this step.

    2. Drill holes along the marks by using a 1/2- or 3/8-inch-diameter spade bit and power drill.

    3. Use wood chisel to split the damaged board into two pieces, it makes floor removal easier.

    4. Pry out the damaged board. If you take a strip out of the middle, you can pry the remaining pieces away from the adjacent boards before prying them up. Remove any additional boards the same way but cut them so the end joints are staggered.

    5. Smooth and square for easier installation. Do this procedure, determine the drilled ends with a very sharp wood chisel, and use a nail puller to remove whatever exposed nails or drive it out of the way with a nail set.

    6. Cut a replacement strip to the same length as the one you removed. Cut off the bottom side of the groove on the board.

    This will enables you to install a board between two others by inserting its tongue side first and then lowering its groove side into place. If you don’t remove it, you won’t be able to get the board past the tongue of the adjacent board.

    7. Test-fit the strip to make sure that it fits. If it doesn’t, recut the board.

    8. Remove the replacement strip and use construction adhesive on the rear of the strip.

    9. Install the strip. Use a scrap piece of wood to protect the strip’s surface while tapping it into place.

    10. Nail the board with 2-inch-long ring-shank flooring nails and drive the heads just below the surface with a nail set.

    11. Apply stain and sealer or whatever finish the strip needs to match the existing floor.

    Glue Down Floor Repairs

    Glue down floor repairs will require more prepare before any new replacements are installed. The most difficult part of the job is removing all the material from the subfloor after the boards have been cut out. If you’re dealing with a wood subfloor, chances are the hardwood itself may bring up some of the subfloor with it when removing, unless you’re extremely patient with a sharp chisel and hammer.

    Dealing with nicks and scratches

    You can usually cover up these little eyesores with color putty sticks. Yes, it sounds like a Band-Aid repair, but it’s the quickest and least involved way to handle these problems. Simply clean the nicked or scratched area thoroughly and rub the putty stick over the damaged spot. Let the color dry for a few minutes and then wipe it with a clean cloth. Most of the time, getting color into a nicked or scratched area is all you need to do to make the damage disappear – at least to those who don’t know that the area was damaged before. Use the same stuff to fill nail holes in a patched floor after the top coat is applied.

    If a nick or scratch is really a dig or gouge, you face a whole different type of repair. It involves using wood filler and stain and trying to match the existing floor color. If your floor is really showing its age, you may need to refinish the entire surface instead of spending time and energy on smaller fixes that really are better handled by redoing the entire surface. You’ll like the results a lot more!

    How Much Take Time and Work?

    When repairing a hardwood floor, with time, patience, techniques and proper tools will reward in the end. a prefinished nailed floor will require the least amount of time. It’s very easy to damage pieces next to the ones that are being repaired, and if damage occurs, it makes for a long day work.

    How Much Costs for Repair?

    The costs for Professional labor will vary. For some prefinished board repairs may charge $ 100 per board, while others may include the amount of labor involved or a minimal flat. So where I can find any leftover wood floor? Well, you can find it in the store or wood floor installer warehouse. Calling around to other stores that still handle the line may also be useful, but trying to get someone to listen to your needs.

    Other Considerations

    When buying new floors it’s always recommended to keep leftover material. Many people don’t realize how importance on where it is stored. Unpredictable moisture changes throughout the years will distort the original shape of the flooring. In some cases the hardwood cannot be used.

    When storing, always try to lay any extras flat in an area that has more stable moisture levels and always keep it off of concrete subfloors as well.

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