Keep reading to learn a few tips you can follow about having a minimalist approach.

LESS IS MORE. Unimportant things should be put away. If there isn’t enough space in your home, then try asking your neighbor if you can use their garage. Remember that it’s only temporary, but after a while you might think you don’t really need that stuff around.

KEEP THINGS ORGANIZED. Now would be a good time to organize all your stuff and other projects. Temporarily rid your house of unimportant stuff. Another great idea is to start packing. You can find inexpensive yet attractive baskets in stores from PierOne or WalMart. With those baskets, organization would be easier. If you want to stack your coasters or magazines under the coffee table, do so using a large basket. Using baskets will also allow you to put away bathroom things like toothpaste and make-up. If you allow all those stuff to lay out in the open, people will get distracted and the house will look used.

ARRANGEMENTS. The things you keep around should be arranged in attractive ways so that your house will look interesting. In the kitchen, try to group the canisters together. The counter will look smaller if you spread them out. You should also try the same thing in fireplace mantels, bookcases, and end tables. Just remember that you should not group more than 3 things together and also make sure they vary in height and size. For instance, try grouping 2 candles on one side of the mantle and something smaller on the other side.

Keep in mind that potential buyers would frequently look at photographs and other items that are personal in nature. Talking about family trees or photographs won’t make you sell your house. For the moment, put away all your personal items.

Make sure your house isn’t overly decorated with clutter and personal items so that the buyers can picture themselves living in your house.

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Here’s How:
1. Sweep wood floors frequently with a soft, fine bristle broom.

2. Vacuum-clean once or twice a week to remove dirt and sand. Use a soft brush attachment to minimize scratching.

3. Because water is one of a wood floors worst enemies, get rid of water right away! Remove wet spillages ASAP with soft towels or a wet/dry vacuum cleaner, then dry thoroughly.

4. Use a very dry damp mop when mopping up polyurethaned wood floors, since excess water can seep into seams and ruin a wood floor.

5. Consider applying carpet runners (with non-skid pads) over wood floors in high traffic areas.

6. Vacuum area rugs and runners often so dirt doesn’t filter down through the weave and scratch the wood underneath.

7. Whenever possible, do not wear heavy shoes or high heels on hardwood floors, since some heels can cause dents.

8. Never drag on furniture or other objects across a wood floor. Instead, clean the floor thoroughly to remove dust and grit, then use “gliding” furniture pads underneath the piece to aid sliding it across the floor.

9. Set up floor mats at each entrance in order you don’t track in dirt from the bottoms of shoes.

10. Be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations to treat flooring scratches and dents. If an area of the finishing is damaged by water, it may be difficult to fix it.

11. Use furniture pads to set under table and chair legs and on the feet of dressers and armoires. They can be bought at a local hardware store or home center.

12. Some floors may require periodical rising and buffing. Get recommendations from the manufacturer for the specific procedures for your floor.

Tips:
1. Use surface area rugs in high traffic areas.

2. Always remove spillages promptly. Although small drips of water may not damage the floor, be sure not to let excess amounts of water sit on the floor.

3. Find out cleaning and maintenance requirements for your specific floor from the manufacturer.

The most dangerous enemy of hardwood floor is moisture. Wherever you are planning to set your floor all other materials (concrete, plaster and timber) must be dry. The room in which the floor is to be laid must have been settled to the ambient conditions of temperature and humidity that will usually prevail at that time of year.

Any timber – existing flooring, joinery or battens – should have a moisture substance of no more than +2% above the moisture substance of the new floor. It as advisable, when laying on to existing timber, to ensure this is treated against fungal or insect attack.

Concrete or screed should contain a moist proof membrane and have a moisture substance of no more than 5%. This is, in practice, almost impossible to achieve and so additional precautions should be taken to prevent moisture reaching the new floor.

However it is worth remembering that any new concrete or screed will take about 1 day per mm thickness or 1 month per 25mm of thickness to dry naturally to a moisture substance of 5%. The thicker the slab, the longer the period, for example a 150mm slab will probably take 10-12 months to dry back to a safe moisture level. (Please contact Millennium Hardwoods for advice on how to shorten this time.)

At the time of laying the ambient conditions in the room should lay somewhere in the range of 40-50% humidity and a temperature of 15 to 25oC. Only set up the floor when you are ready to lay it. Under no conditions, store it in a room that is wet or outside, or even in a garage where it could pick up moisture.

Bring the floor into the room in which it is to be laid in the optimum working conditions and let it to adapt to the temperature etc for a minimum of 48 hours. True acclimatisation will take a couple of weeks and this is best done after the floor has been laid (assuming correct tolerance has been made for enlargement of contraction).

Allowing for expansion

All wood floors will expand and contract over the course of the year. Usually they will expand across their width during the summer since the air becomes more humid and the boards take in moisture, and shrink during the winter when heating dries out of the air and removes moisture from the boards.

Kiln drying to 8-10% moisture content will minimize excessive motion.
Tolerance for expansion should be left around the edge of the floor – a gap of 15-20mm is usually sufficient.

However, a floor laid in winter that will expand in the summer may require extra expansion to be allowed for across the width of the floor.

Recommended fitting methods

Millennium Hardwoods recommend that all our floors be set up by hidden nailing to timber (either an existing floor or battens or plywood laid over concrete). The advantage of this method is that boards can be fitted tighter together for a better fit. In addition, the mechanical fixing of boards is a long established technique that allows the boards to expand and contract whilst remaining firmly fixed down.

Gluing immediately to concrete is becoming an established method of fixing providing that the screed is completely smooth and level. Where this is discovered as the preferred option we would still recommend the laying of plywood over the concrete and the floor being glued and pinned to the plywood. (Millennium stock Sika glues.)

Any board that is more than five times wider than its thick is more prone to bowing and cupping. Therefore any board over 140mm wide should be nailed additionally across its width either by screwing and pelletting, face nailing or using adhesive material on the back of the board.

Fitting to concrete floors

We do not recommend immediately to ground floor joists because this may cause the floor to cup. This happens typically when the air below the floor is dampish and causes the underside of the board to expand whilst the air above the floor is dry (usually due to heating) causing the topside to contract.

Millennium Hardwoods would recommend the laying of 18mm exterior grade moisture resistant plywood overlaid with a non-polythene vapour barrier on the hardwood floor hidden nailed to the plywood.
On second floor joists where the problem of differential moisture is unlikely to occur, the hardwood floor can be hidden nailed directly to the joists (assuming they are at centres no wider than 400mm). An additional vapour barrier is not required.

Fitting to existing floors

A new solid hardwood floor can be fitted to an existing floor whether it is old floorboards, sterling board, plywood or chipboard (though chipboard does not hold a nail as other floor types).
When fitting to existing floorboards these should be well fixed down, any high points sanded out and all nails punched below the surface. On a ground floor we recommend overlaying with a non-polythene vapour barrier. The new floor is then hidden nailed at 90? or 45? to the direction of the existing floor.

Where, for aesthetic reasons, it is desirable to lay the new floor in the same direction as the old floor. A layer of 6mm exterior grade plywood can be firmly fixed down and the new floor hidden nailed with a long enough nail to penetrate the plywood and into the old floor. The plywood serves to stop the expansion and contraction of the softwood floor from affecting the new floor. The plywood can be laid as sheets or as strips at 300mm centres.

Under no circumstances is it recommended to accommodate a solid hardwood floor to a floating chipboard floor, because it is not rigid enough.

Underfloor Heating

When laying a floor where Underfloor heating has been set up, it is important to follow these guidelines:

1. We recommend an Engineered Board instead of a solid floor
2. The heating has been on at least 3 weeks prior before laying the floor
3. Make sure there is no water leaking and the concrete is dry. This means no more than 3% moisture, full depth of screed
4. The concrete copes with all the requirements for Underfloor heating
5. The surface temperature of the ground cannot exceed +27oC
6. We advise that the heating is switched off 48 hours prior to the laying of the floor

Engineered Floors

Engineered boards are ideal for Underfloor heating. Always apply an rug pad with a damp proof membrane when floating the boards. In large or odd shaped rooms, engineered boards should be glued and not floated.

Pre-Finished Floor (Finished)

Our automatic process sprayings lacquer on to ALL edges of the board completely sealing it to keep all moisture away.

Finally a catalytic infra red drying system then dries any chosen finishing and expels any smell promptly and efficiently. With some suppliers this process is accomplished on installation, we prefer any smell to be in our factory – not your home.

Finishing a Millennium Hardwoods floor

Before applying any finishing to your floor, the surface should be flat, smooth and clean. On new wood floors this should be accomplished using first medium grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) followed by fine grit (100-120 grit) to ensure a smooth surface. Alternatively Millennium Hardwoods can supply boards pre-sanded to a 100/120 grit finishing to save the work of sanding.

When complete, all dust should be removed (including ledges and skirting) prior to applying finishings. A wide range of finishings are available. Those we recommend are:-

Granglaze Satin – An oil based seal which presents a deep colour to wood similar to an oil finishing. It is especially good on oak tree floors.

Application – All these finishings can be applied using a 12″ applicator & Pad or a good quality brush. Rollers are not recommended. After thorough shaking and pouring into a suitable tray, the product should be evenly applied along the grain of the wood. When dry, the surface should be softly sanded using fine sandpaper (160 – 180 grit) to remove raised grain.

After removing dust further coats are applied as directed. Three or four coats are usually required although heavy traffic areas may require extra costs.

When the last coat is dry the floor should be left for a minimum of 24 hours in domestic and 48 hours in commercial premises prior to light use.

The floor will remain susceptible to scratching until the full curing time is reached (approx 7 days). The floor should not be cleaned or covered with rugs for this period.

Home Improvements and How to Show a Bit of Discipline

Home improvements are known to represent a dream’s realization. With a few improvements, your home can be made into a magical castle. You want to have that extra bedroom. Or maybe a couple of high end windows that canter from the center. Or how about those $400 bathroom fixtures. The list can go on forever and so there’s no better time to get it all done than right now. Maybe you should stop and think first.

There are people who can’t recover from the cost of home improvements, so they end up regretting what they’ve done to their homes. Remember that the homes in your neighborhood would within a certain range of prices. More or less, the range is limited to not more than a hundred thousand dollars being the difference between the pristine residence and the dump.

Being careful can help you avoid spending tons of money on improvements that would go beyond your neighborhood’s value. It would be difficult to sell your home for a profit if this is the situation because the ceiling on your market’s area is lower than the money you’ve spent into the property. This is just like a buyer and seller version and it’s known as improver’s remorse.

Even if you’re aware of the market cap in your neighborhood, you may still face problems with overdoing your improvements. When it comes to married people, there are times when they each have a particular improvement that they would like to see in the house. The thing is, it’s possible the other person has no idea of what his/her partner is doing. Sometimes, one party would tell the contractor to go with a design he or she wants while their partner is not around to tell them otherwise. After a while, the same thing will be done to other parts of the house. In the end of the project, the cost will be too high. It may seem laughable but it actually happens all the time.

It’s important to map out your budget if making improvements in your home is what you want to do. You need to know the amount of money you’ll spend as well as what the market will support. After that, all you need to do is stick to the plan.

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Most of the floor stains people are concerned about are pet urine. It seems that when we bring our pets in from the cold, we cannot convince them that the floor is now NOT their toilet. But you MUST convince them of this or your lovely hardwood floors will be a stinky and stained mess.

Coffee, juice and ink will also penetrate the wood finishing if left for hours, and in some cases, stain the wood itself. But before you go ahead and learn this, you should find out if the stain is only on the surface of the floor finishing. You may be lucky and find out that a spot cleaning with a good pH neutral cleaner is all that is needed to remove the stain. But, if you find out that your floor finishing is so unstable that it gets stained with least provocation, it may be best to sand and refinish the entire floor and take care of the stains at the same time.

If you discover that it is only the floor finishing itself has been stained you may use an additional fine nylon rubbing pad to aid in removing enough complete to get the stain out. Some solvents like mineral spirits will remove some crayon stains or black heel stains if the water based cleaner won’t work. Lacquer thinner will remove nail polish but it will, in some cases, remove the floor finishing too. Blot the spillage with a white rag and little amounts of lacquer thinner in this case. There are products like Goof-Off that will remove latex paint splatters, and some previous adhesives. And the trick to remove chewing gum off the floors is to chill it with a special spray product, so that it will chip off.

I suggest you to mix a very little amount – ½ capful – with warm water for the initial cleaning. Do not wet mop up your hardwood floor. Just wipe and dry. I recommend no more than 2 times a month. Use good judgment because excessive usage of water can cause your hardwood floors to become water damaged and dingy. For deeper stains in the finishing you can even remove some more of the stained floor finishing with fine 120 grit sandpaper. In a lot of these cases you will have to touch up the finishing. Therefore be sure to learn the second part of my floor maintenance article to determine just what this floor finishing is, so the touch up will blend well. But if you discover that the stain is well into the wood itself, read on, I will describe the 3 kinds of wood bleaches and their best applications.

Maybe you interesting in reading this article: Removing Stains and Odors on Hardwood Floor

When it comes to electrical outlets What you can do about electrical outlets is buy covers so that your child won’t get his/her hands on them or you can put some furniture in front of them.

Using cords Cords, whether for draperies or blinds, are a risk Your baby can choke from cords used in blinds while electrical cords can cause shocks, or your baby can pull something heavy like a lamp on top of them. Tips about rickety furniture Get rid of furniture that are unstable. When the day comes that your baby starts pulling up, he could pull furniture and it could fall on top of him. A better option would be to attach furniture like heavy bookcases.

Plants vs. safety To prevent your baby from getting poisoned by some houseplants, make sure that they’re all out of his reach. How to use radiators Cover your radiators during winter months or put barriers in front of them. Using fireplaces To protect your baby’s little fingers, equip your fireplace with glass doors or grills.

Stairs and safety To prevent your baby from tumbling down the stairs, make sure you install baby gates.

Cabinets and safety It’s important to install childproof latches on doors and drawers, particularly those with cleaning supplies, so that your baby won’t be able to open them. When it comes to railings The railings like those on your stairs shouldn’t have more than a 5 inch gap between vertical posts. You need to make certain so your baby won’t end up getting stuck.

You need to take these important steps to ready your home for the day your baby begins to crawl around the house. Also an important thing to do is practice keeping your regular things away. Scissors, buttons, and letter openers are just some of the things that adults use regularly that are dangerous to babies. With some preparation, even if it takes time to get used to, your baby won’t be at risk from your daily activities.

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